If you catch the moment just right, if you have perfect timing, the wave will carry you on the ride of a lifetime. Perhaps that is why the surfer is so relaxed. What we practice, we become masters of.
Surfing in the brine, creating that water-lace trail, absorbing the heat of the summer sun, riding upon the top of the greatest waves the sea has to offer... that's what we did all summer.
It was the time for surfing, for feeling that inner spirit rise with the waves, riding so freely upon their crest. We could feel our bodies in synchrony with our minds, in that way we think with no words. It's when we just do it, just get up there and be. There's a joy in it, feeling waves of serenity as steady as the ocean. It's being there in the sunlight, existing in each sweet moment as if it were just one, the past falling away with a gentle acceptance of the future we create.
The rhythm of the waves became the markers of time, not that Sandeep minded. He stood watching the swells, the big one would come. With his surfboard clamped under his left arm he kept his vigil while others ran in for lesser waves again and again. He was dreaming with his eyes wide open, he was riding the wave of a lifetime as it curled above his head. The roar of the waves before him became the roar of his dream wave, a magnified roar to send his spirit soaring. He savoured the salty air, this was his place, his time. He scrunched his bare toes into the sand, he would be planted here until it came.